Getting to the campsite is half the fun..

It's a great river with current and wildlife. Our campsite is ahead, right right.

Setting up the campsite -- climb the trees first

The kitchen is everyone's priority. Stringing tarps in the trees, chopping onions and peppers for dinner, open a bottle of wine. Even a cooler full of ice and a portable toilet! Not entirely primitive here.

Hide out on the hammock?

While everyone sorts through the food, the sleeping gear and flashlights, at least one person discovers the pleasure of simply laying there and listening. No earphones, nothing artificial anywhere around you.

Walking through Don Claudio's project of rainforest restoration

When don Claudio bought this land 50 years ago it was worn out, dry, useless chapparal. He brought in tree seedlings, natural soil coverage, and followed a vision to restore then land to usefulness. Now, 50 years later, his reward is a true rain forest, with giant trees he once held in his hands as seedlings. The forest is filled with wild things, from the birds and monkeys to the colorful frogs that control the insect population.

Don Claudio has built something precious -- a diverse rain forest, which now supports his family with his sale of exotic tropical plants, aquarium fish, and what he can harvest and eat from nature's bounty. Don Claudio is one of the true recyclers.

The river is ours to play with

Paddling the kayaks or fishing on the river banks, it's a lost time that sticks with you forever.

When there's no other way to carry the gear...

It's a rugged route. The gear gets there on pack horses. You get there on foot -- steep trails and cutting the growth with machetes.

The destination tonight

Using machetes and tree trunks setting up the campsite takes cooperation and energy. After today's hike you might prefer just laying in the river to soothe your legs and shoulders.

Set up the kitchen

Boats are unloaded and unpacked -- stuffed with tents and tarps and bottled water. The kitchen gets priority

A simple dinner, full of flavor

Dinner is hearty but simple. Rice and beans, chicken or beef, chayote and carrots -- enough energy for today -- and for tomorrow's river descent

The Way Out - constant rapids

We've reached a part of the Pacuare everyone has forgotten -- the Top Top Pacuare. Descending the river now is in Cabecar land. The Cabecars come to the river's edge to fish, wash clothes, bathe, and play.

The Cabecars survived the Spanish conquest by disappearing in the forest, breaking into small groups to remain hidden. Their language is similar to the clicking of bushmen and Aborigines, and they prefer no contact with whites. We respect their desires and are proud we've received permission to pass through it.